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Troubleshooting carrier Furnace Problems

 Troubleshooting Carrier Furnace Problem

Step 1: Thermostat Problem:

Check to make sure the thermostat is calling for heat, if the thermostat is battery operated check to see if the batteries need to be replaced.

Step 2: Main Circuit breaker Problem:

Next, make sure that there is power going to the furnace. Check to see if the furnace breaker is turned off or moved in the middle, if it is turned off you can simply turn it back ON and if it’s moved in the middle then you will turn it fully to the OFF position and then turn it back to ON position. This is how you can reset the breaker.

Note: if the breaker is tripped that means there is a possibility of a short circuit in the furnace or electric wire, you then should call an HVAC contractor immediately.

Step 3: Furnace Error Codes:

Remove the front cover of the furnace. You will see the top and bottom compartments of the furnace. On the bottom compartment, you will find a see-through round glass. This see-through glass is to check the furnace fault codes. You can check how many times the LED either red or green or combinations of both lights are flashing. Note the flashing sequence and match it with the LED error codes given on the back of the furnace cover or on the user manual. It depends on what brand of furnace you have will have its own troubleshooting flow chart. You can also find your Furnace error codes at the bottom of this page.

Carrier Furnace Error Codes

ERROR CODE HOW TO FIX IT
Continuous Off Check for 115VAC to the furnace
Continuous On Control has 24 VAC power
Rapid Flashing Line Voltage Poliatry reversed.
11 Stored status codes are erased when power (115VAC or 24VAC) to control is interrupted or 48 hours after each fault is cleared.
12

BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115VAC or 24VAC) – Blower runs for 90 seconds, if unit is powered up

during a call for heat R-W closed

13 LIMIT OR FLAME ROLL-OUT SWITCH LOCKOUT — Control will auto reset after 3 hours. Reset switch or re lace fuse link. Refer to #33.
14 IGNITION LOCKOUT- Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34.
21
GAS HEATING LOCKOUT — Control will NOT auto-reset. Check for: control (Valve relay) *Mis-wired gas valve *Defective
22

ABNORMAL FLAME PROVING SIGNAL, Flame is proved while gas valve is deenergized. Inducer will run unt

If Fault is cleared.  Check for:  *Leaky gas valve    *Stuck open gas valve

 

23
PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN- Check for: * Obstructed pressure switch *Pressure switch stuck
24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN Check for: *Short circuit in secondary voltage (24VAC) wiring.
31

PRESSURE, DRAFT SAFEGUARD, AUX LIMIT SWITCH (when used*) OR BLOCKED VENT SWITCH

(when used) DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED (DOWNFLOW If open longer than five minutes,

The inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry.  Check for:  Proper vent sizing  Defective inducer motor Low inducer voltage (115VAC)  Defective blower motor or capacitor  Restricted vent  Excessive wind. Defective pressure switch Inadequate combustion air supply  Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing

If it opens after trial for ignition period, the blower will come on for 90 second recycle delay,

33 LIMIT OR FLAME ROLL-OUT SWITCH IS OPEN – If open longer than 3 minutes, code changes to lockout #13. Flame roll-out switch requires manual reset. Check for: – Defective blower motor or capacitor — Dib/ filter or restricted duct system – Loose blower wheel – Defective switch or connections – Inadequate combustion air supply (Flame roll-out switch or fuse link open) – Open Flame Roll-out Switch or fuse link. Manual reset or replace
34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE – Control will try three more times before lockout #14 occurs. If flame signal lost during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for 90 second recycle delay. Check for:
– Control ground continuity – Flame sensor must not be grounded – Oxide build-up  on flame sensor (clean with fine steel wool) – Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. min., 4.0 – 6.0 nominal). – Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off – Manual valve shut-off – Defective Hot Surface IgnLow inlet gas pressure

Step 4: Inducer Motor Problem:

Once the thermostat calls for heat, the inducer motor comes on to make sure there is no restriction in the exhaust and intake vent. Inducer motors exhaust the flue gases out of your home when the furnace is working, if the inducer motor stops working your furnace also stops working.

The Inducer motor is located on the top compartment of the furnace.

A simple way to test the inducer motor is by touching it, if it feels too hot that means it’s burnt. Be careful when touching the motor, sometimes it becomes too hot and can burn your fingers.

Step 5: Clear Your Furnace Vents For Blockage:

On High-efficiency furnaces check to see there is no restriction in front of exhaust and intake vent pipes. Sometimes snow piles up and blocks the exhaust or intake vent pipes, which causes the pressure switch to open. Pressure switch which senses negative pressure in the venting turns off the furnace. The furnace pressure switch ensures there is no blockage in vent pipes.

Step 6: Igniter Problem:

  • Standing Continuous Pilot

Pilot light out is the most common problem among older furnaces. These furnaces don’t have an Inducer motor. On a call for heat, the gas valve opens and passes the gas to the burners where a small pilot flame that stays ON all the time lights the main burners.

  • Spark Igniter 

Some high-efficiency furnaces have spark igniter to light the burners. On the call for heat once the inducer motor ensures safe operation then the circuit board sends a signal to spark igniter. It stops sparking after lightening the burners….

  • Hot Surface Igniter (HSI)

Most high-efficiency furnaces have HSI. On the call for heat once the inducer motor ensures safe operation then the circuit board sends a signal to HSI. It glows and lights the burners and stops glowing after lighting the main burners.

(Note) Depending on which furnace you have, if you can see the pilot light, HSI glow, or hear a spark but the burners don’t come on then it’s a furnace Gas Valve, Circuit Board, or Gas related issue.

Step 7: Flame Sensors Problem:

When the burners come ON a flame sensor proves the presence of a flame, without this flame sensor furnace would not know when a flame is present. Furnace’s short cycling is also one of the reasons for flame sensor failure. The circuit consists of a flame sensing rod at the opposite end of the burner assembly from the furnace gas manifold connection. The flame sensing rod is positioned in front of the last burner.

Causes of low or no flame current:

·       Dirty flame rod

·       Cracked ceramic insulator on flame sensing rod

·       Cracked or broken flame sensing rod wire

·       Poor furnace ground

·       Reverse polarity of 115-volt power

·       Low gas supply

Step 8: Low Gas Pressure:

Normal L.P Gas pressure 10” to 12.5” W.C.

Normal Natural gas pressure is 7” to 11” W.C

Only a certified gas technician can check the gas pressures by using a manometer.

Check to make sure your gas supply is in the on position parallel to your gas supply line

Step 9: Clogged Drain:

All high-efficiency furnaces are condensing also known as Category 4 furnaces. All the condensation collects in a collector box where the water exits through a drainpipe to the house drain. Check to see if the drain is clogged. Vacuum it with a shop vacuum to remove any blockage. If the drain gets clogged, it stops the furnace. It can also cause a short circuit of the circuit board, blower motor, poor air quality, and rusting of the furnace. This is why regular furnace maintenance does more than just keep them running.

Step 10:  Dirty Furnace Filter:

The furnace filter is also a major cause of furnace Blowing cold air.

The furnace filter is generally on the return duct right before the furnace.  A dirty filter causes blockage of airflow. This results in a furnace overheating and shuts off too quickly before your house gets heated up.

It is recommended to replace the furnace filters every 2 to 3 months.